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Beauty Blog

Ingredient: Cetyl Alcohol
 
Cetyl alcohol is very different from "regular" alcohols, like ethanol. It's a white, waxy substance found in animals and plants, like coconut and palm oil. It can also be made in a laboratory. The chemical makeup of Cetearyl alcohol is different from more commonly known alcohols. In Cetearyl alcohol, the alcohol group (-OH) is attached to a very long chain of hydrocarbons (fats). This feature allows fatty alcohols to trap water and provides a soothing feel to the skin. In personal care products like skin lotions and creams, cetyl alcohol serves as a thickening agent and emulsifier (an emulsion is a mixture of two or more liquids that are normally immiscible - unmixable or unblendable), to help keep product ingredients from separating. Because cetyl alcohol melts at temperatures higher than the average human body temperature, it is useful in cosmetic products like lipsticks, helping lip color adhere to the skin. For nearly 30 years, a Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) expert scientific panel has stated that cetyl alcohol is safe for use as cosmetic ingredients. In 2005, CIR considered available new data and reaffirmed its original safety conclusion.
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What Is Cetyl-alcohol, and is it good for your skin?
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BRAND PROFILE: Actiiv Hair Science
 
RECOVER Actiiv's Recover is a 2-step, shampoo-based system for men and women experiencing hair loss or wanting to target and combat hair loss before it is visible. Using natural, plant-based compounds, our Recover products are able to target hair loss and thinning at the source. Recover line is a simple shampoo and conditioning process that only needs to be used every other day for 5 minutes in the shower! It cleanses and targets production of DHT (causes 95% of hair loss in men and women) Unlike competitors using harsh alcohols to reach the follicle, Actiiv uses a patented, green tea delivery system. During the 5-minute shampoo treatment, the delivery system temporarily widens the follicle channel to deliver our natural ingredients at the deepest level where they cleanse and defend against DHT, the leading cause of hair loss. RENEW Actiiv Renew is a two-step shampoo-based system designed to target damaged and lifeless hair & increase hair growth. Natural, plant-based ingredients help deliver optimal results while providing you with a safe, luxurious hair care experience. Actiiv isn't just for hair loss. Use Actiiv Renew to increase growth by up to 40% and repair damaged and over-processed hair.
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Actiiv isn't just for hair loss! Learn what RECOVER and RENEW can do for you.
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Water in Skincare: Necessary?
 
Water can actually be drying for the skin. This is because when water evaporates off the skin, it can remove surface lipids from your skin which causes your skin to lose moisture. So, increased exposure to water alone really isn't great for the skin, especially if you struggle with dry skin. You may already know that the first five ingredients on the label make up at least 80 percent of the product, which means that in many cases you are paying for mostly water. There are many reasons why skincare products contain water. Water allows more ingredient options within a formulation. Some ingredients are oil-soluble, but many beneficial botanical extracts are water-soluble, and can't be used in an anhydrous formulation. Water also improves product consistency and spreadability for some products. Not everyone likes the consistency of heavier balms and butters. Sometimes adding even a small amount of water gives the product a more desirable feel without compromising the overall efficacy of the product. But…too often, water is included in a product as a cheap filler that may not serve a purpose related to your skin. When using a daily lotion you apply all over, this may not be such an issue. But when paying for a skincare product that has active ingredients for anti-acne or anti-aging, the higher concentration ingredients vs. water may defeat their purpose. Consider a facial cleanser, of course, you use water when washing & rinsing your face, so why do you need more water in your cleanser. Water-based products require preservatives. Commonly used preservatives can include parabens and DMDM Hydantoin, which may present additional health risks. Companies aren't required to divulge the source of the water in their formulas. Depending on the source of the water used (such as tap water) adding water to a formula may introduce unwanted contaminants such as fluoride and chlorine as well as microbes and fungi which further encourage microbial growth within the product. Adding water may ultimately lead to drier skin if there are no emollients in the formulation. Water quickly evaporates, so a water-based moisturizer may only provide temporary relief from dryness. Adding water to a product that also contains oil creates the need for an emulsifier. Common emulsifiers include sodium lauryl sulfate or polyethylene glycols which may cause irritation and disrupt the skin barrier.
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Water is often one of the first ingredients you see in skin care. Is it there for a reason?
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Salt vs. Sugar Scrubs
 
Salt scrubs are typically made with some type of sea salt (Dead Sea or European Spa salts) or Epsom salts and a combination of oils. While normal table salt does exfoliate as well, sea salts and Epsom salts have the added benefit of minerals like magnesium and potassium that are great for your skin. They can also help reduce inflammation, which relieves sore muscles, arthritis, and tension. All of this contributes to a healthier, more relaxing scrub that has benefits beyond just exfoliation. The other main difference between salt and sugar in a scrub is that salt is naturally more abrasive, making it a stronger exfoliant. Even fine salt tends to have sharper edges than sugar granules, which makes it great for dry areas with lots of dead skin like your feet and elbows. Some people may find that salt irritates their skin, and you'll want to avoid rubbing your salt scrub on any cuts because it definitely stings! Even so, when you need strong exfoliation, salt is the best choice. You can prevent irritation by using a finer grade salt and using your salt scrubs about once a week instead of 2-3 times a week. Sugar Scrubs Unlike salt, most sugar has small granules with relatively smooth edges, so while it offers exfoliation, it won't be quite as strong. This is perfect for people with sensitive skin, though, and it's great if you want to use your scrub a few times a week. Sugar scrubs are great for use on your face and other more sensitive areas. Unlike salt scrubs, however, sugar doesn't offer the same minerals and benefits. It exfoliates and leaves your skin feeling great but without the added relief from sore muscles and inflammation. Many people still love sugar scrubs and prefer them over salt scrubs. Just be sure to take all the aspects of each one into consideration before making your choice! Shop for Scrubs We have them for face to feet and everything in between!
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Salt or Sugar Scrub, which is best for your skin?
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Temporary or Semi-Permanent Color
 
Want to add a little pizazz to your hair without a big commitment or expensive maintenance? Temporary or Semi-Permanent Hair Colors are your solution. You can just enhance your actual color, create a little peek-a-boo fun or go wild. See below to decide what type of formula you need: Ready? Go! Temporary Hair Color: These products are truly temporary and are usually sold as color rinses. They're used most often to cover or mask gray hair, or to add a subtle (or even a bold) tone to your natural color. Temporary color sits on the outside of the cuticle and adds color to the surface of the hair. Temporary hair color won't take you from a darker shade to a lighter shade, but it can add some depth and richness to lighter hair. Temporary colors rarely last beyond your next shampoo . Temporary hair color can be found in a variety of products: rinses which add color to the hair and are styled dry, color mousses which add subtle color tones, hair mascara for dramatic effects, spray-on colors for controlled application, and even color-tinted shampoos and conditioners to add depth and longevity to colored hair. Semi-Permanent Hair Color: Semi-permanent color is designed to deposit color onto the hair only and has no lightening effect. The formula includes an activator that develops the color and helps to raise the cuticle of the hair shaft so that the color can be deposited there. Semi-permanent color doesn't penetrate into the cortex of the hair, but it will usually last from six to eight weeks (4-12 shampoos) , gradually washing out with each shampoo. Semi-permanent hair color can be used to deposit color over blonde or lightened hair; to blend (but not cover) grey; to refresh faded hair color; to correct hair color that has gone off-tone (turned brassy or ashy, for example) and to blend highlights with base hair color. A clear semi-permanent can also add shine and restore the luster of dull, damaged hair. Semi-permanent color may also be found in shampoos, conditioners, and masks that can be used to maintain the tone of hair between salon visits.
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What's the difference between Temporary and Semi-Permanent hair color?
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Ingredient: 1,4-Dioxane
 
What is 1,4-dioxane? 1,4-dioxane is a trace contaminant in some cosmetic products. 1,4-dioxane forms as a by-product during the manufacturing process of certain cosmetic ingredients. These ingredients include certain detergents, foaming agents, emulsifiers and solvents identifiable by the prefix, word, or syllables "PEG," "Polyethylene," "Polyethylene glycol," "Polyoxyethylene," "-eth-," or "-oxynol-." It is created through a process called ethoxylation, in which ethylene oxide, a known breast carcinogen, is added to other chemicals to make them less harsh. For example , sodium laurel sulfate, a chemical that is harsh on the skin, is often converted to the less-harsh chemical sodium laureth sulfate (the "eth" denotes ethoxylation). The conversion process can lead to contamination of this ingredient with 1,4-dioxane. Other common ingredients that may be contaminated by 1,4-dioxane include PEG compounds and chemicals that include the clauses "xynol","ceteareth" and "oleth". Most commonly, 1,4-dioxane is found in products that create suds, like shampoo, liquid soap and bubble bath. 1,4-dioxane is a potential human carcinogen. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has classified 1,4-dioxane as "likely to be carcinogenic to humans," based on a finding of sufficient evidence of carcinogenicity in animals intentionally exposed to 1,4-dioxane but inadequate evidence of carcinogenicity in humans. So, how do you avoid this harmful ingredient. The FDA does not require 1,4-dioxane to be listed as an ingredient on product labels because the chemical is a contaminant produced during manufacturing. Without labeling, there is no way to know for certain whether a product contains 1,4,-dioxane, making it difficult for consumers to avoid it. Alternative processes to ethoxylation do exist, but many companies don't take advantage of them. Vacuum-stripping can remove 1,4-dioxane from an ethoxylated product, or manufacturers can skip ethoxylation entirely by using less-harsh ingredients to begin with. A study by the Organic Consumers Association shows that 1,4-dioxane is nonexistent in a variety of cosmetics certified under the USDA National Organic Program. Therefore a good way to avoid exposure to this chemical is to buy products that have been certified under this program. Additionally, consumers can avoid products that contain sodium laureth sulfate, PEG compounds, and chemicals that include the clauses xynol, ceteareth and oleth.
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You won't see it on a label, but it could be in your beauty products.
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Drug or Cosmetic
 
We all know, the FDA does not regulate cosmetics. It does, however, regulate drugs, i.e. products containing "actives" that can change the structure of your skin or treat the symptoms of a condition like eczema or rosacea. Those considered a drug by the FDA, means it comes with a specific set of regulatory guidelines and an approval process involving clinical trials before it can be sold. When buying skin care products, how do you know which it is - drug or cosmetic? Here's where it gets really confusing: Whether or not a product lists the active as an active ingredient on the label comes down to whether or not it's considered a cosmetic or a drug. A skin-care cosmetic product may contain the same active ingredient as a product that's considered a drug, but it won't list the active ingredient in question as an active ingredient on the label, but rather as an ingredient even if it is advertised on the front of the packaging. This is due to the wording of the claims around the ingredient. For instance, a face wash containing salicylic acid may be considered a drug and list it as an active ingredient if it claims to actually treat or manage acne. If it's cosmetic, it may just list salicylic acid among its many ingredients. It's the way a product is marketed including its intended use, what the consumer perceives it to do, and what the packaging claims it will do. That determines which category the FDA puts it in. So, a product might say it can "reduce the appearance of" skin concerns such as wrinkles or redness or otherwise make them "less noticeable" without specifically saying it treats the underlying condition associated with those issues. In these cases, the FDA treats them like cosmetics rather than drugs. Cosmetic ingredients aren't tested by the FDA before they're sold, so the responsibility for them to be safe and effective rests on the manufacturer. Specifically, cosmetics are defined as products "for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance," and they are required not to mislead consumers with their claims, otherwise the FDA may take action. In 2016, the FDA issued warning letters to 30 different companies for citing drug claims associated with topical skin care, hair care, and eyelash/eyebrow preparations, noted on both product labeling and websites. Some examples of the drug claims cited are acne treatment, cellulite reduction, stretch mark reduction, wrinkle removal, dandruff treatment, hair restoration, and eyelash growth. All were selling a product as a cosmetic but labeling and promoting it as a drug, e.g. intended to diagnose, mitigate, treat, or prevent disease, or to affect the structure or function of the body. Bottom line: be a label and ingredient reader!  Be wary of companies claiming to cure a health concern.  See if the label states the product is FDA approved.  Check with your doctor if you are unsure of the what the product claims.
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The bottom line on determining if a product is a cosmetic or a drug.
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Let's Detox!
 
If you're joining us on our Clean Salon beauty journey, now is the perfect time to do a beauty cabinet detox, getting rid of products that contain unhealthy ingredients you are now determined to avoid. It can be a little surprising to realize just how many products we use every day. Most of us have more than we think. Now consider that the more you use, the higher the chance you're not only using one ingredient villain, you may be layering on several of these toxic ingredients - from head to toe. The first step is identifying the ingredients you want to avoid. Be a label reader. If you are unsure of what an ingredient is, you can always check our Clean Salon menu. You also might want to start just by avoiding all of the dirty dozen. These are the most problematic and have the most science behind them. If you can't afford to toss everything and start over…which most of us can't…put a big black X on the item so when it is time to replace it, you're not just grabbing the same brand out of habit. It's a good reminder you want to find a clean product to replace it. It is important to remember that the US Food & Drug Administration (FDA) does not regulate beauty products and has only banned 11 substances. In contrast, the European Union (EU) has over 1,000 banned chemicals. It also much more closely monitors and approves beauty products. If you want to learn more about this, we've provided the links below for chemicals banned in the USA, Europe, Canada & Japan. USA Chemicals banned https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetics-laws-regulations/prohibited-restricted-ingredients-cosmetics EU Chemicals Banned https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/HTML/?uri=CELEX:02009R1223-20150416&from=EN Canada https://www.canada.ca/en/health-canada/services/consumer-product-safety/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredient-hotlist-prohibited-restricted-ingredients/hotlist.html Japan https://www.mhlw.go.jp/file/06-Seisakujouhou-11120000-Iyakushokuhinkyoku/0000032704.pdf
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What better time than the present to clear out your beauty bins?
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BRAND PROFILE: Maria Nila
 
100% vegan hair care produced in Sweden Maria Nila is not the usual hair care brand. Their 100% vegan and cruelty-free products are developed out of love for animals, and a belief they should not be part of hair care products. By providing high-quality vegan beauty, they make it easy for everyone to take a step towards a sustainable and friendlier world. When you choose Maria Nila, you choose cruelty-free, climate-friendly and color protecting hair care produced in Sweden. Their chemists develop products with carefully chosen ingredients that make a difference for clients, salons, animals and the environment. They have their own product development, production, filling, and warehouse in a factory in Helsingborg, Sweden. From there ship all over the world. Maria Nila 100% vegan shampoos, conditioners, and masques come in formulas True Soft, Sheer Silver, Pure Volume, Luminous Colour and Structure Repair. Maria Nila Colour Refresh is a gentle hair masque with non-permanent color pigments. By using Colour Refresh you can easily either intensify your current color or change the color in your hair. The color washes out successively and stays in your hair for about 4 - 10 washes. It ranges in 15 shades. In 2018 Maria Nila opened up the doors to their new innovative factory and beauty hub. Located south of Sweden, this hub multiplied the manufacturing capacity by four! In this facility, everything happens, from creative ideas to finished products. From trend forecasting and resourcing of new ingredients, to chemistry, formula development, filling of bottles and finally storing in a warehouse on their way to salons all over the world. This factory is designed to produce sustainable beauty, features like a solar panel covered roof, equivalent to the energy usage of 60 households, and a circular air condensation equipment. This allows for the residual heat to be transferred back into the production process, means great energy efficiency that makes the most out of the invested resources. The new beauty hub has a capacity of producing 5000 products per hour, generating less energy and emissions per produced unit than ever before! At Marian Nila, they have a more modern and holistic view on working conditions. They provide a fully equipped gym center, charging stations for all of the company's electric cars. They also have a 64 sqm plant wall to enhance the air quality, how cool is that! Inside the building, the laboratory 'The Innovation Room' and "˜The Beauty Studio' also make way for great creativity to further create upcoming trends, educate hairdressers and develop tomorrow' hair care products. Maria Nila has safety and quality checks in every step of the production chain. They assure that you that their products have the highest possible quality, in every single unit. By driving and controlling the entire process from concept to product, they are able to guarantee healthy working conditions and high-quality formulas.
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Providing the world with friendly, sustainable beauty in a professional, conscious and playful way.
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Face Masks Revealed
 
They are so easy! The face mask has exploded because they make your face look and feel great and your beauty routine faster. But...with all the different types of masks available, how do you select the one or more that are right for your skin type. Let us help you! First, if you are under the impression that face masks are an indulgence, you are mistaken. Your skins need the love and care a mask can provide. Cream Masks These are great for normal to dry skin. They provide moisture, hydration and soften your skin. They also make your skin plumper and smoother. Look for ingredients like AHA's (alpha hydroxy acid), BHA's (beta hydroxy acid), essential oils and natural butters. Clay Masks These masks balance out oil levels and help to regulate oil secretion on the surface of your skin so they are best for oily or acne-prone skin. Clay masks help rid your skin of all the dust and debris that has built up; plus they remove blackheads. They help to resolve T-zone issues and firm skin. Look for ingredients like lactic and citric acids. Gel Masks Sensitive and dehydrated skin types should use a gel mask. They are gentle, lightweight and get absorbed quickly. They can hydrate and calm your skin while firming it. Look for ingredients like cucumber, green tea, and mint. Exfoliating Masks Skincare experts recommend a skin face exfoliation twice per week. This helps to get rid of dead skin cells that clog pores. Exfoliating helps to brighten, giving you a healthy glow. Look for ingredients like glycolic acid, lactic acid or papaya, and pineapple fruit enzymes. Thermal Masks Also know as self-heating mask, these use science to work miracles on your skin. The ingredients generate heat with exposure to air or water or both. They produce a deep cleaning, unclogging pores and enhancing blood circulation. They can pull out deep impurities in the skin. These masks are especially perfect in winter. Peel Off Masks Want an instant glow? Use a peel-off mask. They physically removed everything that has settle on the top layer of your skin - dead skin cells, dust, oil and blackheads. Look for ones that use fruit or plant based and use all natural ingredients. Hydrogel Masks Holding much more moisture than a regular gel, these are very, very effective for repairing fine lines, wrinkles and other signs of aging. They can be used by most skin types, reduce redness caused by inflammation and leave your skin baby soft. Vitamin C Masks Aging reduced your skin's capacity to produce collagen - the substance that gives your skin it's flexibility. A vitamin C mask will fortify you skin, fill up the tiny lines, and boost collagen production. Vitamin C (also called L-ascorbic acid), along with AHA's (alpha hydroxy acids) are some of the best anti-aging skin care ingredients.
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How do you select the one or more masks that are right for your skin type?
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