Beauty Blog

Acacia Gum also known as Gum Arabic is one of the most ancient of the gums. Acacia gum is a safe and natural stabilizer and thickener in cosmetics. From mascaras to skin lotions to hair products, eyeliners, and lipsticks, Acacia gum is a safe and natural ingredient that will bring stabilization and texture to products. Acacia gum is derived from the sap of the Acacia Senegal tree and is harvested by making small cuts in the tree's bark and allowing the sap to solidify. The acacia tree is a thorny, scraggly tree that grows approximately 4.5 m tall. It is most abundant in regions of Africa, especially in the Republic of Sudan. During times of drought, the bark of the tree splits, exuding a sap that dries in small droplets or tears. Historically, these hardened sap tears served as the major source of acacia gum, but modern commercial acacia gum is derived by tapping trees periodically and collecting the resin semi-mechanically. In skincare: Acacia gum is used as a soothing ingredient and helps alleviate inflammations. Gums are also used to thicken natural liquid soap and cosmetics. Acacia gum can also be used in lotions, creams, and serums to improve texture and act as an emulsifier. It can also help lock in moisture, reduce eye puffiness, and tighten the skin. In Cosmetics: Acacia gum is used in mascaras, lipsticks, foundations, and other cosmetics to improve texture and consistency and to help makeup apply more evenly and last longer. It can also act as a natural film-former that coats and protects the skin and hair, and helps products like sunscreen and facial masks stick to the skin. In Haircare: Acacia gum can be used as a protective agent in hair products.

Welcome the truth with Truth Treatment Systems. Created by Benjamin Knight Fuchs who had a goal to formulate products that would provide topical nourishment for the skin that met the strictest performance standards. All products are made with 100 percent active and functional ingredients that will make a difference on your skin. No fillers, preservatives, waxes, emulsifiers, oils or fragrances. All of their topical treatments work with the biochemistry of the skin. Products augment and enable dermal processes at the skin cell (not surface) level. Ingredients activate fibroblasts, normalize keratinocytes, stimulate proteins and enhance the production of extracellular lipids. And that's the secret. Truth Treatment Systems products and regimens don't change skin chemistry, they support skin chemistry! Apply a pea-size amount of any balm and notice the soft and supple feeling. Work in a small dose of Omega 6 Healing Cream and notice the radiance. Use Retinol Gel once or twice a week before you go to bed and notice the subtle lifting of your skin and watch how fine lines and blemishes begin to disappear.

In order to understand what "non-comedogenic" means, it may be helpful to break the word down. A comedo (or comedones, if more than one) is a type of pimple, or lesion that can form on your skin. Pimples differ according to their appearance and what causes them. A comedo, the least severe form of acne, is the result of a clogged pore. Pores are the tiny openings in your skin that you can see when you look very closely, especially in a magnifying mirror. Inside those pores are hair follicles -- sacs beneath the skin that house the hair root -- and that's where pimples begin. When your body produces excess sebum, it can combine with dead skin cells and sometimes bacteria to plug up the pore. The result is a pimple -- a comedo. If the comedo is closed at the skin's surface, it's called a whitehead. When it's open at the skin's surface, and you can see the plugged follicle darkened by melanin buildup, it's called a blackhead. Substances that cause your pores to become clogged and develop comedos are said to be comedogenic. Non-comedogenic products shouldn't clog your pores. Non-comedogenic is essentially "non-pore-clogging". If you have combination, oily or sensitive skin, you should use "non-comedogenic" makeup and creams and cleansers. However, there is one thing to keep in mind: there aren't really any regulations specifying what a company has to do to call its cleansers "non-comedogenic", and products labeled that way may not work for everyone. The next time you want to hide your inflamed and large pores with heavy foundation, stop and think a moment. Are you making the matters worse? Your main goal is not to get a reversed effect. With no guidelines or standards in place, even the thickest, greasiest moisturizer can claim it "won't clog pores"! As a general rule, the thicker the product, the more likely it is to be pore-clogging. Instead, if you have oily or clog-prone skin, avoid products with a thick, creamy consistency. Look for products that have a liquid, gel, or extremely light serum texture, or a thin, water-based lotion consistency. Generally, products with thinner textures are less likely to clog pores or worsen breakouts.

Grab your soda maker! It's not just for drinks! It can also make a beauty treat for your face! Sparkling water not only helps cleanse your skin in a deeper way-its carbonation helps to break up the dirt and oil embedded in your pores-there are real benefits aesthetically. For example, at room temperature, carbonated water becomes a vasodilator [normal water needs to be heated to have a vasodilation effect], meaning it triggers your blood vessels to open up, bringing the blood supply to your skin's tissue. This, in turn, enhances nutrient delivery, like oxygen, to the dermis [skin]; and the better your circulation is, the better your system will function, and the healthier your skin will look. First popularized by women in Japan and Korea, sparkling water is slowly making its way to the U.S. The reason some aestheticians love this treatment, other than for its simplicity and timelessness, is because the mineral water can help keep the cells between collagen fibers strong, aiding overall firmness and plumpness of the skin. The sparkling water is also known to help mechanically wash out the pores without too much harshness. Because this treatment is known to be compatible with all skin types, aestheticians can turn to this treatment without being too concerned about irritation or being overly harsh on the skin. In addition to clear pores and a healthy glow, tap water's pH (of 7) can disrupt the skin's acid mantle (a barrier on the skin's outermost layer), which is slightly acidic at a level of 5.5 pH. That's the same pH of carbonated water. So when you cleanse with the sparkling water, the carbonation won't alter your complexion's pH; whereas washing your face with tap water can cause dryness, which can lead to tiny cracks in your skin, inviting bacteria to brew, and breakouts to occur. Yep, acne happens THAT easily. How to wash with sparkling water. Once or twice a week is enough. Some people say that any longer than ten to fifteen seconds is too much for the skin, and other folks will say that they soak for as long as they can hold their breath. The idea is that this shouldn't be overdone and should be carefully monitored to see how your skin reacts in order to find that sweet spot of how long your skin should be soaking for. Pour sparkling water into bowl that is large enough and deep enough to submerge your face. Submerge your face into the bowl of sparkling water for 10 seconds. Massage your favorite cleansing wash into your skin. Wash away the soap with the carbonated water rinse. Dab your face with a towel before moisturizing. TIPS: If the foaming effect is too strong, mix equal parts sparkling water and mineral water to dial down the fizz for a gentler rinse. Combine a 1:1 ratio of sparkling and green tea water, drench cotton pads with the solution, and then placing them on you face for 10 minutes. It's an amazing refresher! If you want to try sparkling water on your face and you don't have a soda machine, buy a bottle first. If you and your skin love the effects, over time it may be worth the investment in a machine. .

Microcrystalline Wax is a specific type of wax produced by de-oiling petroleum as part of the petroleum refining process. Typical microcrystalline wax crystal structure is small and thin, making them more flexible than paraffin wax. It is also more elastic than other waxes and has a higher melting point. It is used in cosmetics and beauty products as a viscosity agent, binder and emollient. It is considered safe for use in these products. There are many types of waxes used in many types of products including lipsticks, baby products, eye and facial makeup, as well as nail care, skin care, suntan, sunscreen, fragrance, and non-coloring hair preparations. Ozokerite, Ceresin and Montan Wax are mineral waxes, derived from coal and shale. Paraffin and Microcrystalline Wax are derived from petroleum. Emulsifying Wax, Synthetic Wax and Synthetic Beeswax are manufactured waxes. Waxes thicken portion of cosmetics and personal care products and help keep emulsions from separating into their oil and liquid components. These waxes lessen the brittleness of stick products and add strength and stability to lipsticks. These waxes also hold together the ingredients of a compressed cake. Industries that utilize petrolatum, such as the personal care, cosmetic, and candle industries, have pushed for more materials that are considered "green" and based on renewable resources. As an alternative, hybrid petrolatum can be used. Hybrid petrolatum utilizes a complex mixture of vegetable oils and waxes and combines them with petroleum, micro wax based technologies. This allows the manufacturer to incorporate higher percentages of renewable resources while maintaining the beneficial properties of the petrolatum.

Occlusives are one of the three pillars of moisturizers. They work alongside humectants and emollients to keep skin feeling soft, hydrated, and glowing. Occlusive substances work by helping to form a physical barrier or seal on the outer layer of the skin, to prevent trans-epidermal water loss; and keep moisture locked in. Although they don't increase the moisture levels of the skin, they can help prevent water reserves from being drained by external sources like wind, a dry environment, or injury. They are often fatty, waxy, or oily substances that can be found in moisturizers, masks, and other products. Occlusives can be especially beneficial for people with dry or sensitive skin. Occlusives can come from plant sources, like candelilla wax, carnauba wax, palm kernel, and heavy oils like macadamia, castor, and cocoa butter. Others, like mineral oil, petrolatum, and paraffin come from refining crude oil. Some are natural-identical like allantoin, a compound found in many natural sources, but are often produced in a lab for cost and sustainability reasons. You are already familiar with products high in occlusive agents without even knowing it. To get an idea of what they feel like think of barrier creams, foot creams, and good old Vaseline, which is made from 100% petrolatum - an ingredient derived from crude oil. Occlusive ingredients can feel heavy and greasy on the skin - therefore it's best to include them along with lighter-feeling ingredients when creating moisturizing skin care products. Natural occlusives: Beeswax is composed of monoesters, diesters, and triesters, as well as hydrocarbons, hydroxy polyesters, and free fatty acids. Because of the nature of beeswax, including its moisturizing and soothing qualities, it is very frequently used in moisturizers. Vegetable waxes - for those who don't like using animal products, there are some great vegetable waxes that are a great substitute for beeswax. Carnauba wax, also called Brazil wax and palm wax, Candelilla wax, and Palm kernel oil are great choices,. Plant oils and butter high in Oleic Acid. In general, most plant oils are considered emollients, but some oils, particularly those high in oleic acid, also work also have occlusive properties. These oils often have a thicker, greasier feel and include olive, avocado, rice bran, macadamia, castor, soybean oil, and shea and cocoa butter. Lecithin is a fat that is essential in the cells of the body. It can be found in many foods, including soybeans, chickpeas, and egg yolks. It is a multi-purpose ingredient that helps pump up the skin's barrier function and also be used as an emulsifier for oil in water emulsions. It can also help with serious dryness and eczema. It can be derived from many plant sources including sunflower and soy. Cocoa Butter is an amazing occlusive. It has properties of all the moisturizing components and is a go-to for the skin. One of the benefits of cocoa butter is its high tocopherol content. This is a cluster of compounds that together contain a lot of Vitamin E and is sometimes referred to as a form of that key vitamin. Tocopherol is a friend of the skin due to its antioxidant properties. These protect the skin from UV rays and ultimately make it look firm and healthy. By boosting collagen, Vitamin E also keeps your face free of nagging little spots and lines and wrinkles that may come from age.4. Allantoin - While allantoin occurs naturally in botanical extracts of the comfrey plant, it is generally chemically synthesized to be nature-identical for sustainability reasons. When formulating, allantoin will come in the form of a white powder that is dissolved in the water phase. Allantoin helps to create a barrier over the skin while healing and promoting cellular regeneration. Non-Natural/Synthetic/Petroleum-based Occlusive agents There are many great plant-based or natural occlusives, but some of the occlusives ingredients most popular with dermatologists and professional formulators are derived from petroleum products or made with some synthetic ingredients. Regardless of whether you use choose to use all-natural ingredients or synthetics, it's important to understand what options are available. . Petrolatum , or petroleum jelly and mineral oil. These are the two most popular occlusive ingredients because they are both inexpensive to produce and are effective occlusive ingredients. It's generally believed, that when properly refined, petrolatum has no known health concerns and is safe to use. Another concern is regarding the impact on the environment because both are derived from crude oil, a renewable resource. Dimethicone is one of the best and most popular synthetic occlusive ingredients because it is inexpensive and easy to produce and it excels at forming a nice moisture barrier over the skin. Another reason for dimethicone's popularity is that it is the only ingredient listed that has a greasy feeling when applied to the skin. There is a wide variety of ingredients-many of them all-natural-that can provide the occlusive component of your moisturizer. As mentioned above, some of them have emollient or humectant properties as well. This gives you a great chance to mix various emollient, humectant, and occlusive agents for a great moisturizer that works for your skin's unique needs. Capric triglyceride is a combination of coconut oil and glycerin. Oily skin types may want to avoid occlusives with comedogenic properties, like coconut oil because their skin is prone to acne.

PEGs (polyethylene glycols) are petroleum-based compounds that are widely used in cosmetics as thickeners, solvents, softeners, and moisture carriers. PEG is not a specific chemical, but rather a mixture of compounds, of "polymers" that have been bonded together. Polyethylene is the most common form of plastic, and when combined with glycol, it becomes a thick and sticky liquid. PEGs are commonly used as cosmetic cream bases. In cosmetics, they function as emollients, which help soften and lubricate the skin. They also function as emulsifiers, which help water-based and oil-based ingredients mix properly. On the ingredients label, you may have noticed, PEGs are almost always followed by a number after their name, such as PEG 100. This number represents the approximate molecular weight of that compound. Typically, cosmetics use PEGs with smaller molecular weights. The lower the molecular weight, the easier it is for the compound to penetrate the skin. Often, PEGs are connected to another molecule. You might see, for example, "PEG 100 stearate" as an ingredient. What this means is that the polyethylene glycol polymer with an approximate molecular weight code of 100 is attached chemically to stearic acid. Now just to clear up a few misconceptions… PEGs are not found in anti-freeze; that's ethylene glycol, NOT polyethylene glycol. And yes, PEGs are found in some spray-on oven cleaners, but those PEGs are quite different in both molecular weight and structure than the PEGs found in your cosmetics. They are also used in pharmaceuticals as laxatives, again with a different molecular weight. So, are PEGs something you want or don't want in your skincare products? The answer isn't really a simple yes or no. The FDA considers PEGs to be Generally Recognized as Safe ingredients for cosmetics, and studies have shown them to be non-irritating to skin and eyes. However, some studies have shown evidence of genotoxicity, and PEGs can cause irritation and systemic toxicity if used on broken skin. PEGs can also act as a penetration enhancer, increasing the skin's permeability and allowing greater absorption of other ingredients, including harmful ones. The most important thing you need to know about PEGs is that they have a penetration-enhancing effect and are found in many skin creams. The penetration-enhancing effect is important for three reasons: 1) If your skin care product contains a bunch of other undesirable ingredients, PEGs will make it easier for them to get down deep into your skin. 2) By altering the surface tension of the skin, PEGs may upset the natural moisture balance. 3) PEGs are not always pure but often come contaminated with a host of toxic impurities. While the penetration enhancement is dependent upon a number of factors, the most important is the overall health of the skin. PEGs of all sizes may penetrate through injured skin with compromised barrier function. So it is very important to avoid products with PEGs if your skin is not in tip-top condition. .

Tocopherol, or vitamin E, a fat-soluble vitamin is a naturally occurring antioxidant which can be isolated from vegetable oil. When isolated Tocopherol, is a viscous oil that varies in color from yellow to brownish red. Rather than Tocopherol itself, esters of Tocopherol are often used in cosmetic and personal care products. In cosmetics and personal care products, Tocopherol and other ingredients made from Tocopherol, including Tocopherol esters* are used in the formulation of lipstick, eye shadow, blushers, face powders and foundations, moisturizers, skin care products, bath soaps and detergents, hair conditioners, and many other products. It is most often used as an anti-oxidant and/or an occlusive for skin conditioning products. (*Ester = An ester is an organic compound where the hydrogen in the compound's carboxyl group is replaced with a hydrocarbon group. Esters are derived from carboxylic acids and (usually) alcohol.) Vitamin E or "Tocopherol" is more than one ingredient. It may be listed as: Alpha-tocopherol. Alpha-tocotrienols. Beta-tocopherol. Beta tocotrienols. Gamma-tocopherol. Gamma-Tocotrienols. Basically, if you see "tocopherol" or "tocotrienols" somewhere on the packaging, that's vitamin E in disguise. Also, if you see the "d" prefix (such as d-alpha-tocopherol), it means it comes from a natural source. If you see the "dl" prefix (such as dl-alpha-tocopherol), it's made in a lab. They both work well, but the natural kind seems to do the job a little bit better. So, what is it that this Vitamin E can do? . Vitamin E is a powerful antioxidant. It constantly patrols your body, looking for free radicals. When it finds one, it quickly destroys it. Problem is, the vitamin E your body naturally makes depletes with age and sun exposure. Yep, the more time you spend in the sun without sun protection, the sooner your body goes through its supply of vitamin E. That's why you want to add some back through your skincare - you'll replenish the stock and kill even more free radicals. Take that, wrinkles! Vitamin E gives you some protection from the sun, too. Before you get too excited, no, it's NOT a substitute for your sunscreen. Vitamin E can help boost its protection, but it won't replace it. Studies show vitamin E reduces the severity of your sunburn and improves the effectiveness of the UV filters in your sunscreen. Vitamin E strengthens the skin's natural barrier, reducing water loss. Now that moisture's locked into your skin, it softens and plumps it up. It helps your skincare products last longer. Vitamin E isn't your usual antioxidant. It doesn't kill bacteria and germs that find their way into your precious lotions and potions. Instead, it prevents the light from oxidizing (i.e. making ineffective) the active ingredients in your products. Without its help, they wouldn't last you as long.

Eco-friendly packaging focuses on whether the container holding the skin care formula is biodegradable, made from recycled materials or is recyclable itself. This can be a challenge as the products need to be kept safe, clean and undisturbed from the packaging. The materials need to maintain stability for products that contain water or oils. The reality is that the cosmetics themselves could start to prematurely breakdown the packaging and lead to a shorter shelf life. In some ways, eco-friendly packaging can also help customers avoid certain chemicals if that's a concern. In recent years there has been some concern over whether the chemicals in plastic packaging can be harmful to our health. Think BPA and phthalates. These chemicals are thought to be endocrine disruptors and possible carcinogens, The beauty industry is constantly reinventing itself; coming up with better, safer, and cleaner products every day. But when is the last time you took a close look at your beauty shelf and updated it to be as green as you could be? What are Recycled & Biodegradable Packaging? Making sure the packaging of your beauty products is "green" is one of the easiest ways to improve your footprint on the Earth. Biodegradable packaging breaks down in only 3 to 6 months which is a huge step forward compared to original plastics which can take several hundred years. The best option is "no-waste" packaging, which doesn't necessarily mean a lack of packaging altogether. Technically"no waste" is meant to refer to products where no portion is sent to landfills, oceans or incinerated. Packaging options that can be recycled include biodegradable paper or cardboard, metal containers and glass bottles and jars. The biodegradable paper is often used for the boxes and outer packaging of the products. Biodegradable paper is often coated with potato or corn (as opposed to plastic). This kind of packaging made a boom in the late 00s and early 10s and is widely available in the beauty industry. Brands like Pravana, Onesta, Matrix Biolage RAW, AG and more have been produced in these more eco-friendly packages for years now. Some companies have now also made another large step forward by making the packaging out of recycled material and biodegradable. One company, for example, is the Matrix Biolage RAW. Every bottle is made from recycled plastic, is recyclable and the contents are formulated in a factory the is powered 100% by the sun. Now that is a green option for your shower! (Look for the symbol when shopping at BeautyCareChoices.com) What else can you do? Make the switch to multi-use products! Items like cleansing conditioners have come a long way in the last 5 years. They are a great alternative to having both shampoo and conditioner in your shower. If you aren't ready to make that big of a switch consider using your shampoo also as a body wash and your conditioner can double as a shaving cream. On your makeup counter use items like a tinted moisturizer as a base instead of sunscreen, primer, and moisturizer. Jane Iredale's Dream Tint is a great example. It carries SPF 15, Jojoba and Shea Butter for moisture and minimizes pore and lines like a primer. Bam! Used to use three products, now all found in this one!

It can often be confusing when brands tout the virtues of their products, especially the differences between vegan, organic and cruelty free. As Beauty Care Choices continues its commitment to the Clean Salon , you will see these symbols associated with brands, brand lines and products. For you to continue making safer choices on what beauty products you purchase, we want to be sure you understand what these terms mean. CRUELTY-FREE Cruelty-free means that the products, and the ingredients that were used in the product, were not tested on animals at any stage during their development. Many brands do go through the processes of being PETA or Leaping Bunny certified, but what about the brands that don't? This does not mean they do test on animals, just that they haven't gone through those larger companies. Also, some brands may not test on animals here in the states but do in other world-wide market places. We are doing the research for you, so you can make a well-informed purchase. VEGAN FRIENDLY Vegan means that the products contain no animal ingredients or animal by-products. This includes well known ingredients like honey, beeswax, gelatin, yogurt and other less obvious animal by-products like: Lanolin (wool grease) which in common in lip products. Shellac (from lac bugs) used in some nail products. Squalene (shark liver oil) used in lip balms, deodorants and moisturizers. Carmine (crushed beetles) to create a red color for lipsticks, blushes, nail polish. Ambergris (sperm whale vomit) in perfumes ORGANIC Across the USA, UK and Australia, certified "organic" has a very similar definition. The FDA has started regulating brands use of the word "organic", meaning for brands to openly market themselves as organic there are hoops to be jumped through. We are asking the questions and looking into all of our brands being organic or not. That way you know, even if they don't outright say it. If you're buying certified organic generally your products (food or the ingredients in your cosmetics, for example) come for a farming system which uses: . No manufactured herbicides or artificial fertilizers. No artificial or synthetic colors, preservatives or chemicals (including parabens and sulfates). No routine use of antibiotics. No GMOs (genetically modified organisms) or growth regulators. Very limited number of pesticides allowed. More sustainable land management.